On a cold, winter, cloudy, sunless, windy, January morning, she took me to Half Moon Bay.
I had gone before - twice - both with cold, cold winds. A lot depends on wearing protective clothing - including gloves and ear protection.
The waves at this place are majestic. With gale winds blowing, they get easily more than 30 feet tall - immense, juggernauts of water avalaches.
On such a morning - well prepared - we walked along the beach.
After a while, we came at a small cove like wet inset beach and saw a bunch of surfers in their wet suites.
!
We walked further along and climbled a small hill overlooking the beach.
We saw a lone surfer - away from the bunch of surfers near the beach. This guy was away deeper - nearer the cliff where we were standing. And then, he caught a wave.
Beautiful, gliding, riding the water
Arms outstreatched and head steady.
He went on and on... I kept clicking.
....
...
And finally it ended, and we saw him swim again, waiting, trying, failing, passing - but no.
After a while, we walked away.
